A BASIC BODICE BLOCK PATTERN (updated)

23.9.18

Here is my easy basic bodice pattern that can be used for any dress.
I use this pattern in almost every project I start. It saves a lot of time. This is how I started to make my own clothes.
To get started we need basic things: a clear piece of paper, pen, sccisors, tape measure or a ruler. I have this measure ruler if you don't have one, a simple ruler does the same job.
Over here, I fold the paper in half lengthwise. I make sure the paper is straight from the edge by drawing a straight line. In the picture below from right to left - on the line I mark the width of my neckline which came up to 6-inches, half of that is 3 inches as I need to divide the measurement by 2...Then I marked my back shoulder width and half an inch seam allowance.I take 1-inch down from the previous marking and draw a veritical line by joining the marks from the neckline to the shoulder. The shoulder on the body is not straight; this is the way our shoulders will sit.(Once I draw a shape of the armhole, you will be less confused)
Over here, I am going to mark the armhole and upper chest line.
The upper Chest calculations is the bust divided by six plus one and a half inch. For Example if your bust measurement is 34-inches divide it by 6 = 5.6 then add 1.5-inch equals 7.16 inches. This will be the armhole line. So mine came up to 7.5 inches. I draw the armhole line of 7.5 inch down And then straight across the upper chest line.To get the armhole shape. I measure 1.5-inch along the chest line and curve the shape out. I normally hand draw a curve through the points. If you have a french ruler which will give a perfect shape it will be a lot easier, use anything that is handy.On the armhole line I marked the mid point of 7.5 which is 3.9inch then I marked 1 inch away from the midpoint. This marking is for the front armhole of the bodice...Front neckline depends on the design. This is just the marking point for the front neckline.For the back neckline I marked 3-inches down from the top and draw a simple round shape, as shown...You can mark your back waist length from the nape of the neck to the waist line.
 However I find it easier to take it on myself from the chest down my bust measurement then waist and hips.This is the way how I measure myself to get the perfect fit. I know it is not the professional way of taking it but to know your body curves is the key to get the perfect shape on a dress. I take the tape measure from chest to bust. Then from chest to the curve of the waist and from chest to the hips.Bust, waist and hip measurements always divide it by 4 then add 1 to 2 inches ease to the number.I normally don't add darts to my dresses but here I will explain how to mark it. If you are going to add pleats to the bodice then you also need to add extra 1 inch to the waist measurement.To make the darts you can mark it from the top neckline to below bust. Or mark 1 inch down from the bust line.Then measure the bust spam, which is nipple to nipple and divide it by 2 mine came up to 8 divided by 2 equals 4-inches...Then I mark the length of the pleats that is 7-inches.I draw a straight line and take half an inch on each side of the line and join the marks to make a dart...I cut the paper in half to get the front bodice.Front armhole of the bodice should have more depth for better fitting so I pushed pen through the previous marking of the front armhole...You don't have to but it is better to write down the measurements. In future, you can always change it, an inch up or down by putting this pattern onto new paper.To get the marks onto the fabric I push my pen through the points and make a hole. And thats how I put this pattern on the fabric and cut out the bodice for any dress.And there you have it a basic bodice block. I will upload about the two in one kameez/shirt soon. If you are interested to watch step by step tutorial in a video then click below (:

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