Cutting and sewing of any dress/Asian kameez

Asalam u alaiqum (peace be upon you) Beautiful people
How are you doing? I hope you are doing well. 
Few weeks back I made a video and a blog post of how I like to take the dress size measurements on a piece of paper and use it for any dress style. This saves a lot of time to cut the dress. Since I made the post I wanted to make another one so I can show the basic sewing of any dress.

In this post, I am making a Asian kameez. The only style difference with Asian kameez is from the bottom/sides it is open which called slits. The rest of the Asian kameez cutting and sewing is the same as any other dresses. Obviously, there are so many dress styles but the basic cutting and stitching of the dresses are necklines, shoulders, armholes, sides of the dress and sleeves so in this post and a video down below you will see how I like to sew it. A fitting Kameez is a very flattering garment. You can wear it as a tunic with your jeans, make it very short and wear it with your skirt, or even wear it with shorts for a modern take. A sleeveless Kurta with Dhothi pants or a long Kameez with churi daar is my favourite wear.
Here is the fabric in cotton. It's a three piece suit. It's front neckline is already made however I will upload another post on how to design necklines.
I iron the fabric right side inwards, fold the cloth half way through lengthwise and pin them together to keep in place.I put my pre-made pattern on for cutting. Here is my previous post of how to take dress measurements on a piece of paperUse clear paper sheets. I ran out of sheets (needed to make a new one and this is the only one left) It was hard to work with |:
I'm cutting more depth at the front armholes.I'm using the sleeve pattern and cutting the sleeves.
After cutting the shirt.Front and back of the Kameez (bodice)To sew the back neckline I made stretchy stripe, which is flexible to move around while sewing.Stitching the Kameez
I start from the necklines. Its front neckline already made so I move onto the back neckline. Here I put the strip on right side of the bodice and sew along the seam.
Normally I do not under stitch the neckline. I iron the strip towards inside and hand stitch. Under stitching(along the seam) gives neat look too.
Stitching shoulders
To join the shoulders I keep the back and front bodice right sides together. Making sure back and front neckline seams match. Then I stitch along the shoulder line.
Finalizing shoulder measurement and cutting off the extra fabric.Stitching the sides (From over bust to over hips)
End point to the slit marking(over hips). This is the point where Kameez slits are made.It should end up look like this...
Necklines...Shoulders...Sides...Stitching the slit and the bottom hem edge
Slit mark to bottom, I fold and iron the cloth to keep in place.To finish the edges, I turn half an inch inwards and iron to keep in place for stitching.This is how it should end up looking...When its iron, it makes a lot easier to stitch the edges.Stitching the chalks/slits
I stitch from the bottom edge upwards, stop at little up to the end of the side joint. Now insert the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric towards left, so that slit to my right.I stitch a straight line till the end of the other raw edge of the bodice, keeping the raw edge folded.I finish the other edge from slit to bottom edge...After stitching it will look like the picture below.Stitching sleeves to the armholes
To begin, I start sewing from shoulder point to the under sleeve point. I like to sew the sleeve and the bodice seam allowance facing opposite (just like it show in the picture below) Then all the way around.Shoulder point...Under sleeve point...Sleeve and bodice seam allowance (sewn opposite)Thats about it, the basics of any dress cutting and stitching. This is how I like to make Asian Kameez (:After hand-stitching the back Neckline.Armholes...Sleeves...
Bottom/edges...
I also made a simple trouser. I will upload another post soon. Do not forget to watch a video too (: I hope you will find it helpful. Positive vibes x!
~Be Patient Be Positive~ A♡O
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2 comments

  1. You are so creative! I really would love to learn more about sewing. It would save me a lot of extra expenses! Best Wishes, Iga http://www.igaberry.com

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    1. I am also a learner, learning thru mistakes but I do try my best to explain and show an easy way to be our own dress designer ;) Thank you beautiful! Best wishes to you too ♡ x!

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